Energy dissipation mechanisms in wave breaking processes: Spilling and highly aerated plunging breaking events

Wave Breaking and Dissipation in the Nearshore

The difficult problem of understanding wave dissipation in the nearshore is approached through field observations made across a variety of beach profiles and under a wide range of wave conditions. Data are obtained remotely from video recordings of the surf zone and inner continental shelf, and image processing techniques are used to detect and quantify wave breaking over spatial and temporal s...

Wave Breaking Dissipation in the Wave-Driven Ocean Circulation

If wave breaking modifies the Lagrangian fluid orbital paths by inducing an uncertainty in the path itself and this uncertainty on wave motion time scales is observable as additive noise, it is shown that within the context of a wave/current interaction model for basin and shelf scale motions it persists on long time scales. The model of McWilliams et al. (2004) provides the general framework f...

numerical simulations of spilling breaking waves

Energy dissipation and spectrum evolution during the breaking of modulated wave trains

In this paper the wave breaking induced by modulational instability is investigated numerically. The wave train is composed by a fundamental component with two sideband disturbances and the analysis is performed for those conditions in which the instability leads the limiting steepness to be exceeded. Due to the different speeds characterizing individual waves and the peak of the envelope, the ...

Application of Artificial Neural Network and Fuzzy Inference System in Prediction of Breaking Wave Characteristics

Wave height as well as water depth at the breaking point are two basic parameters which are necessary for studying coastal processes. In this study, the application of soft computing-based methods such as artificial neural network (ANN), fuzzy inference system (FIS), adaptive neuro fuzzy inference system (ANFIS) and semi-empirical models for prediction of these parameters are investigated. Th...